Luggage Tags

Find your case quickly and easily on the luggage carousel and make sure it finds its way back to you should it decide to take a trip on a different plane with this quick and easy DIY luggage tag.

This makes a great gift, especially if you pick the fabric to suit the recipient.

You will need:

  • 2 pieces of cotton fabric 6″ x 3 3/4″
  • 1 piece of cotton fabric 14″ x 2″ for loop
  • 2 pieces of heavy interfacing 5.5″ x 3.25″ (I used an extra heavy pelmet interfacing)
  • Scrap of clear vinyl 2.25″ x 3.5″
  • PVA glue and small brush
  • Clothes Pins
  1. Press both long edges of fabric for loop to the centre then fold in half so that the raw edges are hidden.  Top stitch along both long edges (Fig 1)

Fig 1:Top Stitch Fabric Loop

2. Fold and press the rectangles of fabric over the pieces of interfacing.  (Fig 2)

Fig 2: Fabric folded and pressed over interfacing

3. Zig zag machine stitch 3 sides of the piece of clear vinyl onto the front of one of the rectangles

Fig 3: Zig zag vinyl on 3 sides and put tag together

4. Using a small brush paint a thin layer of PVA glue around the inside 4 edges of one of the fabric and interfacing rectangles.

5. Lay the fabric loop on top of one of the short edges of the bottom rectangle (Fig 3) then place the piece with the vinyl pocket on top so that right sides are out and the loop short, raw edges are completely enclosed. Press and hold together with clothes pins until dry.

6. Top stitch around all 4 edges of the luggage tag with a heavy duty machine needle and add a piece of card to the vinyl pocket for name/phone number/ flight details.

 

DIY Anna Costume for a 3 year old

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Birthday season is fast approaching in our family and our granddaughter has requested an Anna outfit.  I nearly bought one but then decided that I had enough time to make one as long as I could get all the bits for it from my stash or quickly online.

I started with the skirt:

Anna Skirt

Luckily, I had a piece of silk in my stash.  It was 1 metre square and near enough in colour for Anna’s skirt.

I folded it in half and stitched the long side together.  Then I folded it over twice to make a casing for the elastic at the top and hemmed along the bottom.  To make the flower decorations along the bottom I drew a simple tulip pattern onto Bondaweb and transferred this onto fabric.

Tulip pattern for Anna's skirt

The leaves and stem I used some green satin type fabric that I had and for the flower a fuchsia coloured felt.  If I was doing it again I would definitely get some green felt for the stem as the felt was much easier to attach to the silk.  At this point my sewing machine decided not to cooperate!  It kept sticking as I was appliqueing the stem to the skirt.  It didn’t look good at all so I put the rest of the stems and flowers on by hand. I found that 5 flowers of 16cm x 8cm (bottom of stem to top of flower) did the job.  I then threaded 1.5cm wide elastic, 2cm longer than our soon to be 3 year old’s waist through the casing.  Skirt finished.

The top was much easier than I thought it would be.  I followed a brilliant pattern by Lifeasmom.com. You can find it here.

I didn’t have enough black felt but did have some black cotton twill which worked great but needed a bit of hemming to hide the raw edges.

Once again I drew the decoration for the front onto Bondaweb which I transferred to green, fuchsia, marigold and purple felt before stitching onto the bodice.

Anna Top

I then bound the neckline and bottom edge with some gold coloured ribbon.

I closed the back with velcro.

The T shirt came from this eBay shop and was just under £5.  Top done!

For the cape I used a piece of fuchsia coloured fleece from Lady Sew and Sew I had some in my stash but .5 m should do it.  I used a fabulous pattern by Danamadeit.com  pattern for a circle skirt but only cut out half a skirt for the cape. I measured around the top and cut and folded a piece of black felt to make a stand up collar.

The frog fastening and the trim also came from eBay.

Frog fastener

1m Jumbo pom pom trim in burgundy

Anna Cape

I metre wasn’t quite enough for the cape so I curved the front edges.  If I was to make again, I’d have bought 2metres.

Anna Outfit 2

Outfit complete!

 

 

A Couple of Baby Quilts

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I’ve just completed another couple of Baby Quilts.  One for a boy and one for a girl:

These were very simple and quick to piece and a good way use up scraps.

Baby Buds Quilt

Baby Buds Quilt

Sail Boats Quilt

Sail Boats Quilt

 

 

 

 

 

 

Both quilts are made up of 6 x 12″ squares (blocks). Here are the instructions for the Sailboat Quilt.

Sailboat Quilt

For each 12″ block you will need:

White Fabric:

  • 4 x 3½” squares
  • 3 x 3⅞ squares

Yellow Fabric:

  • 2 x 3⅞ squares
  • 2″ x 156″ (approx) for binding

Orange Fabric:

  • 2 x 3½” squares
  • 1 x 3⅞ square

Turquoise Fabric:

  • 4 x 3½” squares

To complete the quilt you will need:

Navy Fabric:

  • 9 strips 3½” x 12″
  • 4 strips 3½” x 33″

Backing Fabric:

  • 36″ x 48″

Wadding/Batting:

  • 36″x 48″

Use a ¼” seam allowance and press your seams open as you sew.

Start by joining 2 white 3⅞ squares to 2 yellow 3⅞ squares. Then cut on the diagonal to create 4 squares of one white and one yellow triangle.

Then do the same with one orange and one white 3⅞ square. There are many sites with detailed Instructions on how to do this.  Here’s one of them.

The blocks are constructed by piecing 4 rows of 4 squares then stitching the rows together in the following pattern:

Piecing instructions for Sailboat Quilt

Piecing instructions for Sailboat Quilt

Once you have made 6 blocks, stitch one 12″ navy strip to each side of 3 blocks and one 12″ strip to only the right hand side of 3 blocks.

Now stitch the rows together in 3 groups of 2 blocks by adding one 33″ navy strip to the top and bottom of one group of 2 blocks and then add blocks and strips, working your way down the piece until you have 3 groups of 2 blocks enclosed in navy strips.

Place the backing fabric right side down on a large table, top this with the wadding then lay the pieced sailboats right side up on top of the wadding.  Pin all 3 layers together with large safety pins or tack/baste starting at the middle and working out towards each side.

3 layers

3 layers

Quilt  with wavy lines to represent the sea.

Fold binding strip in half and press so you have 4 long pieces each 1″ wide. Machine each piece to each side of your quilt with raw edges together.  There is a great tutorial on how to do this here. (You’ll find the whole binding process much simpler and easier if you use a walking foot on your sewing machine.)

Either embroider or use an indelible marker to add your name, the date and who the quilt is for to a scrap of fabric and sew it to the back of the quilt.

Now you are ready to give a truly unique and personal gift.

Baby Buds Quilt

For each 12″ block you will need:

White Fabric:

  • 1 x 4½” squares
  • 3 x 4⅞ squares
  • 4 strips 4½” x 36″
  • 9 strips 4½” x 12″

Centre Square Fabric:

  • 1 x 4½ square
  • 2″ x 156″ (approx) for binding

Pink Pattern 1 Fabric:

  • 1 x 4½” squares
  • 2 x 4⅞ square

Pink Pattern 2 Fabric:

  • 1 x 4⅞ squares

To complete the quilt you will need:

Backing Fabric:

  • 36″ x 54″

Wadding/Batting:

  • 36″x 54″

Use a ¼” seam allowance and press your seams open as you sew.

Start by joining 1 white 4⅞ squares to 1 pink (pattern 1) 4⅞ square. Then cut on the diagonal to create 4 squares of one white and one yellow triangle.

Then do the same with 2 white 4⅞ squares and 2 pink (pattern 2) 4⅞ squares. There are many sites with detailed Instructions on how to do this.  Here’s one of them.

The blocks are constructed by piecing 3 rows of 3 squares.  Piece each row then stitch the rows together in the following pattern:

Piecing instructions Baby Bud Quilt

Piecing instructions Baby Bud Quilt

Once you have made 6 blocks, stitch one 12″ white strip to each side of 3 blocks and one 12″ strip to only the right hand side of 3 blocks.

Now stitch the rows together in 3 groups of 2 blocks by adding one 36″ white strip to the top and bottom of one group of 2 blocks and then add blocks and strips, working your way down the piece until you have 3 groups of 2 blocks enclosed in white strips.

Place the backing fabric right side down on a large table, top this with the wadding then lay the pieced baby buds right side up on top of the wadding.  Pin all 3 layers together with large safety pins or tack/baste starting at the middle and working out towards each side.

Quilt.

Fold binding strip in half and press so you have 4 long pieces each 1″ wide. Machine each piece to each side of your quilt with raw edges together.  There is a great tutorial on how to do this here. (You’ll find the whole binding process much simpler and easier if you use a walking foot on your sewing machine.)

Either embroider or use an indelible marker to add your name, the date and who the quilt is for to a scrap of fabric and sew it to the back of the quilt.

Baby Buds Quilt

Baby Buds Quilt

Quilted Bag

Having learned the technique of foundation paper piecing, I’ve had a go at using the same method but instead of paper I used wadding/batting.

Here’s the result:

Quilted bagI used lots of scraps and some pieces from charm packs to create a tote for lugging all my sewing stuff around to the various groups I belong to.

Quilted bag hangingIt holds a massive amount of stuff and is very comfortable to carry. I will make another version soon and remember to take some photographs so I can add instructions next time.

 

Framed Patchwork Squares

I’ve been totally engrossed in making beautiful patchwork squares. As much as I love hand made patchwork quilts the amount of work involved in making a bed size quilt makes it uneconomical to sell so I’ve come up with a way to share the beauty of patchwork in an affordable way. Here are a few of my favourite squares ready for you to frame or I can supply them in 10″ (25cm) square 25mm flat light oak frames.

The pieces are all unique and one of a kind. I can also make them to your own colour scheme or personalise them with themed fabric. Shop here.

They come framed in a precision bevel cut board mount.  The outer measurement of which is 10″ x 10″ (25cm x 25cm) with an aperture of 6¾” x 6¾” (17cm x 17cm).

For more information click here